Trailing Philippine National Hero Dr. Jose Rizal in Vienna

Update July 2023 : Not a lot of graffiti on the building wall’s anymore.

José P. Rizal, the Philippine national hero, traveled with his friend Maximo Viola to Vienna on May 20-24, 1887. They arrived from Brunn, which I assume is today’s Brno, the former capital city of Moravia and the political and cultural hub of the South Moravian Region at the time. In Vienna, Rizal and Viola visited various places of cultural and historical significance. During their five-day stay in Vienna, Rizal and Viola visited museums, statues, libraries and other historic buildings – references to have been scarce as we try to find them in his letters to his companions and acquaintances during that time. (We’d be glad if anyone has info.)

Of special importance to Dr. Rizal was his visit to the Museum of Natural History (Naturhistorisches Museum), because he was trying to look for objects or specimens from the Philippines which might be on exhibit in the museum. Rizal, being a polymath and a keen observer, likely took advantage of his time in Vienna to immerse himself in the city’s intellectual and artistic atmosphere, further enriching his knowledge and experiences.

They stayed at Metropole Hotel, which was located at Morzinplatz. The original structure has been destroyed during the war, and nowadays there stands a residential building, the Leopold Hof, at Franz-Josefs Kai 31 at the corner of Morzinplatz – a walkable distance from the building that housed the Philippine Embassy before it moved to its present location at Ares Tower.

Commemorative plaque

A commemorative plaque for Rizal has been installed in the said building on June 19, 1995 by H.E. Reynaldo Arcilla, Philippine Ambassador to Austria, on the 134th birth anniversary of Dr. José P. Rizal. So whenever we have Filipino visitors in Vienna, I would bring them to see it.

I had some years ago collaborated with a writer in Manila to trail Rizal in Vienna and while I don’t clearly remember what came of it, here’s a short gist of that article, which are compiled mostly from the publications about Rizal and excerpts from his and his friends’ letters. The photos here are the ones I took of friends and some of theirs.

The plaque reads:

“DR. JOSE P. RIZAL, PHILIPPINISCHER NATIONAL HELD, WOHNTE VOM 20. BIS 24. MAI 1887 IM HOTEL METROPOLE DAS SICH AN DIESER STELLE BEFAND. EIN ÖSTERREICHISCHER LEHRER,PROFESSOR FERDINAND BLUMENTRITT UNTERSTÜTZTE RIZALS AKTION IN EUROPA GEGEN DIE SPANISCHE KOLONIALHERRSCHAFT.”

Translation:

“DR. JOSE P. RIZAL, FILIPINO NATIONAL HERO, RESIDED FROM THE MAY 20 to 24, 1887 IN THE HOTEL METROPOLE WHICH WAS IN THIS PLACE. AN AUSTRIAN TEACHER, PROFESSOR FERDINAND BLUMENTRITT SUPPORTED RIZAL’S ACTION IN EUROPE AGAINST SPANISH COLONIAL RULE.”

Viola

Maximo Viola was a Filipino doctor, writer, and patriot who played a significant role in the life of José Rizal. Viola was a close friend and supporter, and he helped finance the publication of Rizal’s novel, “Noli Me Tangere” (Touch Me Not), which is considered as one of the most important works of Philippine literature. Because of the limitations in the Philippines at the time that prevented his brother, Paciano, from sending money to Jose Rizal in Europe, Viola lend Rizal the money he needed. He also accompanied Rizal around Europe and was there with him when “Noli Me Tangere” was printed in Berlin. He also supported Rizal’s efforts to promote reforms in the Philippines.

Jose Rizal and Maximo Villa met one of the best novelists of that time, Norfenfals (to which I couldn’t find other references to). They also got to know two of Blumentritt’s close friends, the Austrian professors Masner and Johannes Nordman (looking for letters exchanged).

Blumentritt

Jose Rizal’s friendship with Austrian scholar Ferdinand Blumentritt was deep and intellectual. Ferdinand Blumentritt, an Austrian scholar and ethnologist, became one of Rizal’s closest friends and correspondents during Rizal’s travels in Europe. Their friendship was based on mutual respect, shared intellectual interests, and a commitment to social justice and reform.

Blumentritt greatly admired Rizal’s intellect, writings, and dedication to the cause of Filipino nationalism and social reform. He provided valuable support to Rizal, offering encouragement, advice, and scholarly insights. Blumentritt’s expertise in history, ethnology, and languages contributed to Rizal’s understanding of European culture and colonialism, which in turn influenced Rizal’s own advocacy for Philippine independence.

Their friendship was sustained through frequent correspondence, with Rizal often seeking Blumentritt’s advice on various matters, including historical research and political strategies. Blumentritt, in turn, actively promoted Rizal’s writings and ideas in Europe, helping to garner support for the Philippine nationalist cause among European intellectuals.

They first met on May 13, 1887 at the Leitmeritz (a town in the Ústí nad Labem Region of the Czech Republic) railroad station. At the station, Professor Blumentritt was holding a pencil drawing of Rizal that he had sent to help identify him.

Despite the distance between them, Rizal and Blumentritt remained close friends until Rizal’s death in 1896. He advised Rizal not to publish the second book, El Filibusterismo, in fear of his friend’s life. Prior to his death in Manila, Rizal penned his farewell letter to Blumentritt. It was said that Blumentritt sobbed after reading the letter.

Blumentritt continued to honor Rizal’s memory and legacy, preserving their correspondence and advocating for the recognition of Rizal’s contributions to Philippine history and culture. Their friendship serves as a testament to the power of intellectual exchange, solidarity, and shared ideals in the pursuit of social justice and national liberation. During his lifetime, Ferdinand Blumentritt was one of the best experts on the Philippines, even though he never set foot there. The Philippines honored him with parks, a street, and a light rail station in Manila that are named after him.

On May 24, Rizal and Viola left Vienna on a river boat to see beautiful sights of the Danube River.

Yes, we have Dr. Maximo Viola to thank for helping publish Noli (I’m speaking for those who has loved to dissect the parallels of history and real-life situation and the symbolism of the lives Filipinos lived at the time written in the book).

Which of the two books do you prefer? For me, the way the characters were developed were very different, so I enjoyed reading Noli more, but loved Fili better. ^_^

Trivia:

Rizal had written two letters to Blumentritt, one dated May 20, 1887 and the other dated May 24, 1887, with address from the Hotel Metropole.

Dr. Viola noted in his travel journal that Rizal had encountered an extremely lovely Viennese girl who quickly won Rizal over. His words read, ‘’In one of our tours of that city, he (Rizal) encountered the figure of a temptress in the form of a Viennese woman, of the family of the Camellias or Margarite, of extraordinary beauty and irresistible attraction, who seemingly had been expressly invited to offer for a moment the cup of mundane pleasure to the apostle of Philippine freedom who until then had enjoyed among his intimates the fame worthy of his glorious namesake St. Joseph.’’

Morzinplatz

While in the area, one can easily go around Morzinplatz. Morzinplatz is a historic square with several points of interest and activities nearby:

Schottenkirche (Scottish Church): This medieval church is just a short walk from Morzinplatz. It’s known for its stunning Gothic architecture and rich history, dating back to the 12th century. Visitors can admire its beautiful interior and attend services or concerts.

Schottenstift (Scottish Abbey): Adjacent to the Schottenkirche is the Schottenstift, a Benedictine monastery founded in the 12th century. The monastery complex includes a church, cloisters, and a museum. It offers guided tours, allowing visitors to explore its fascinating history and architecture.

Vienna’s Historic Center: Morzinplatz is situated near Vienna’s historic city center, making it a convenient starting point for exploring the city’s many attractions. Visitors can stroll through the picturesque streets, visit famous landmarks like St. Stephen’s Cathedral, and enjoy shopping, dining, and cultural experiences.

Danube Canal: Morzinplatz is close to the Danube Canal, a scenic waterway lined with bars, restaurants, and recreational spaces. Visitors can take leisurely walks along the canal, enjoy boat tours, or relax at one of the waterfront cafes.

Jewish Museum Vienna: Just a short distance from Morzinplatz is the Jewish Museum Vienna, which showcases the rich history and culture of Vienna’s Jewish community. The museum features permanent and temporary exhibitions, educational programs, and special events.

Vienna Ringtrasse (Circular Avenue): Morzinplatz is located near the Vienna Ring Road (Ringstraße), a famous boulevard encircling the historic center of Vienna. Visitors can take a leisurely stroll or a guided tour along the Ring Road to admire iconic landmarks such as the Vienna State Opera, Hofburg Palace, and Parliament Building.

How to get to Morzinplatz

To get to Morzinplatz and eventually to the marker/plaque, you can use various modes of transportation depending on your starting point:

Public Transport:  Morzinplatz is conveniently located near several trains, tram and bus stops.

Trams : Several tram lines pass near Morzinplatz. Tram lines 1 and 2, which run along the Ring Road (Ringstraße), are particularly convenient for accessing Morzinplatz. You can get off at the Schottentor or Schottenring tram stop and walk a short distance to Morzinplatz.

U-Bahn (Subway): The closest subway station to Morzinplatz is Schottenring, which is served by the U2 and U4 lines. From the Schottenring station, you can walk to Morzinplatz in just a few minutes. Schwedenplatz, served by U1 and U4 is also nearby.

A bust of Dr. Jose Rizal was installed at Laurenzerberg 2, also the site of the Philippine Embassy, it was unveiled on March 9, 2001 by H.E. Victor Garcia III, Philippine Ambassador to Austria, in the presence of a large gathering of members of various Filipino-Austrian organizations in Vienna. The Rizal bust was donated by two major agencies of the Philippine Government, the Government Service Insurance System (GSIS) and the Social Security System (SSS).

Update : The Embassy has moved to Vienna’s 22nd district and we’re yet to see if the bust remained or if it was brought along to the new offices.

Update 2024 : Yes, Rizal’s bust is displayed at the embassy.

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